The origins of asparagus
A distant cousin of the leek and the onion, asparagus is a vegetable of choice as old as the leek. It has been consumed for more than 2000 years. This perennial vegetable plant is native to the eastern Mediterranean countries. Traces of wild varieties have been found in Africa. Archaeologists believe that it was also cultivated in Egypt.
In ancien Greece, asparagus was considered a plant with sacred and aphrodisiac virtues. Therefore, the Greeks were interested in its biological and pharmacological qualities. Hippocrates, a physician of Greek antiquity, used asparagus to treat intestinal and urinary disorders. This plant contains asparagine, an amino acid known for its diuretic qualities. As for the Romans, they appreciated it more for its gastronomic attractions. They used it as an appetizer or as a vegetable to accompany fish dishes. The asparagus fell into oblivion in the Middle Ages but continued to be cultivated by the Arabs. It was mainly the legions of Caesar who brought asparagus back to Europe from the East.
From the 16th century, asparagus was served in the royal and princely courts of Europe where it was appreciated for its delicacy. Henri III served it to his sweethearts. In the 17th century, asparagus was cultivated in France for Louis XIV who, it is said, loved it. He demanded it on his table in all seasons: to satisfy his desire, La Quintinie, the person in charge of the royal gardens, developed a system of cultivation under cover and in “hot beds”, allowing a harvest practically all year round! At that time, it was “the size of a swan feather”.
Until the beginning of the 19th century, only the wealthy could afford this refined and expensive vegetable. Asparagus began to be democratized at that time, when crops spread first in the Paris region (near Argenteuil, Bezons and Epinay), then in the Loire Valley in the 1870s. Finally, it was to conquer Aquitaine, Provence and the South of France, which are today large production regions.
Today, green asparagus is mainly cultivated in America and China, while white asparagus is mostly grown in Europe.
Asparagus cultivation in France
Asparagus is cultivated throughout France, by more than 3000 producers on approximately 4500 ha (sources: General Census of Agriculture 2010 and Franceagrimer, the F&V sectors, 2014 data, January 2016 edition). As for any plant, the story begins with a seed. It is sown in a nursery and will be cherished for 1 to 2 years. The roots of the young asparagus thus produced, called claws, will be taken and replanted at the producer’s. It is only the following year that the claws will produce asparagus that can be harvested. The asparagus is indeed a plant which has a particular physiological cycle.
- From July to October: the asparagus is in vegetation. The stems and the cladodes (small branches) develop. This green and bushy vegetation can exceed 1,50m. During this phase, the asparagus stores reserves in its roots, thanks to photosynthesis (bioenergetic process which allows organisms to synthesize organic matter by using light energy, water and carbon dioxide). It is these reserves that will allow the production of turions (the edible part of the asparagus) the following spring.
- In October: the vegetation turns yellow and is shredded by the producers.
- From November to January : the asparagus plantation enters its winter rest phase.
- In February and March : the asparagus plantations intended for the production of white or purple asparagus are ridged : a mound of earth of approximately 35 cm height is brought back on the claw. It is in this mound of earth that the shoots will develop.
- From March to June: the asparagus can be harvested. The harvest is entirely manual. It is done daily to ensure a quality product and requires great dexterity to avoid damaging the shoots.
How is the asparagus harvested ?
Asparagus is harvested with a gouge or a long knife.
When the spear points to the tip of its nose, it indicates that it is time to harvest the asparagus (beyond that, it is better to let the asparagus develop). The knife should be inserted as deep as possible in the soil to cut the spear and get as much as possible of the asparagus in good condition. Green asparagus is shallower than white and purple asparagus. A simple knife is therefore sufficient to harvest them.
The different varieties of asparagus
White asparagus : it grows exclusively in the ground. The mound is covered with an opaque tarp to limit the impact of light and the asparagus is harvested with a gouge before it even emerges from the ground.
Purple asparagus : it is produced under the same conditions as white asparagus. However, it has been very slightly exposed to sunlight. It is harvested when the tip comes out of the ground, thus coloring all or part of the asparagus, first in pink and then in purple.
The green asparagus: it grows exclusively outside the ground. It is therefore exposed to sunlight for several days. The concentration of its pigments increases at the same time as the chlorophyll synthesis takes place. Green asparagus is simply harvested with a knife.
Crimson asparagus: the rarest! It comes from a particular variety and is cultivated like the green asparagus.
A vegetable with multiple virtues
The asparagus, beyond being an exceptional vegetable is an ally for health:
– It is a source of vitamins and minerals
– It is very low in calories
– It is rich in fiber and has diuretic properties that facilitate the elimination of toxins from the body
– It is the 5th richest food in folate or vitamin B9, particularly recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women
– It is rich in antioxidants
How to cook asparagus ?
White and purple asparagus require a little preparation. Green asparagus, on the other hand, just needs to be washed.
- Cooking white asparagus :
– In water: Break off the asparagus stalks 2 to 3 cm from their base. Peel them with a vegetable peeler and cook them in boiling salted water for 15 to 20 minutes depending on the size of the asparagus. Remove the asparagus with a skimmer. Pat dry with paper towels and place in a long dish. Keep warm.
– Toast: Cut off the dry end of the asparagus and peel with a paring knife. Heat butter and olive oil in a pan. Add asparagus and roast over medium-low heat for 6 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper at the end of cooking.
– White asparagus can be eaten warm or cold with a hollandaise, mousseline, maltaise or vinaigrette sauce.
- Cooking purple asparagus:
Peel the asparagus and cook for 3 to 5 minutes in boiling salted water. Then stop cooking in ice water and pat them dry with a cloth.
- Cooking green asparagus:
the cooking can be done by steaming or by boiling the vegetables in a large volume of boiling salted water and then stopping the cooking by plunging them into an ice water bath) in a 10% salted water. It is necessary to count between 4 and 6 minutes of cooking according to their diameter and to check the cooking by slipping the blade of a knife at the level of the base. If the blade penetrates easily while having a small restraint, the cooking is finished. Immediately plunge them into iced water for 30 seconds to stop cooking and preserve their color and shine, then drain them on paper towels.
As you can see, asparagus has it all! Deliciously delicate and good for the health, it makes the happiness of the gourmets every spring!
Don’t hesitate any longer, run to your local greengrocer and treat yourself to this queen of spring!
See you soon on La Route des Gourmets!