Epiphany around the world
On January 6, Catholics in many countries around the world celebrate the Epiphany (a feast commemorating the manifestation of Jesus as a child to the Magi who came to worship him). In France, the tradition is to share the “galette des rois”. Do you know its history?
However, the origin of the cake would have nothing religious and would probably go back to the Romans who celebrated the “Saturnalia” after mid-December. It is a period of truce where the power of the masters on their slaves was suspended. Gifts were offered to each other and the arts of the table were shared. At the time of the cake, a bean slipped inside designated the king of a day!
In France, the tradition is to share the “galette des rois”. It is around the 13th – 14th century that the first traces of sharing cake appear during the Epiphany. The cake is shared in as many parts as the number of people present plus one: the poor man’s part. The tradition of the bean goes back to the same period. For the first time in Besançon, monks began to elect their chapter head by putting a gold coin in a piece of bread. The bread was then replaced by a crown of brioche and the gold coin by a bean, which was more economical. Today, the tradition is to send the youngest child, supposed to be the most innocent, under the table, so that he chooses “blindly” to which guest will be allocated each part. The “galette des rois” takes different shapes and flavors depending on the region and the local tradition. But of all the stories, there is one that gave it its name of galette des rois. Indeed, also in the 14th century, the custom of the “king drinks” developed. The one who drew the bean had to offer a round to the assembly. It is said that the stingy ones swallowed the bean so as not to have to pay for a drink. This is how the porcelain bean came into being, as it was less obvious to swallow. The real beans were replaced by porcelain beans representing Jesus in the 18th century (then a Phrygian cap during the revolution and anything and everything today).
In the 16th century, the king’s cake was the object of a fierce war between bakers and pastry cooks. Indeed, each one wanted the monopoly of the sale of this cake, feeling already there a juicy market. The king François 1er granted the right to the pastry cooks. The bakers circumvented the ban on selling king cakes by substituting them with galettes that they offered to their customers.
In Paris, the galette has been mixed with pithiviers (a French cake made with almond cream from the town of Pithiviers in the Loiret department and the Centre-Val de Loire region) to become a flaky pastry cake filled with frangipane (a cream made of two thirds almond cream and one third custard). In the south it is a brioche with candied fruits and orange blossom that is shared for the Epiphany. Until the 1960s, Epiphany was a holiday. It fell on January 6. The sharing of the cake was often celebrated on the evening of the 5th. However, Vatican II (1962-1965) decided that Epiphany would be celebrated on the first Sunday after January 1. Many countries have nevertheless kept the original date of January 6 because the tradition is to share the cake! This is why we often meet several times during the month of January to “pull the kings”.
How is Epiphany celebrated around the world?
In Spain, the “Day of the Three Kings” is used to exchange Christmas gifts, since it was originally the Three Wise Men who brought gifts 12 nights after the birth of the baby Jesus. The day before, carriages parade through the streets. Candied fruits and sweets are thrown, the first fruits of the next day. The “Roscón de Reyes” is made, a bread in the shape of a crown perfumed with orange and lemon peel, brandy and orange blossom, filled with candied fruits, into which a silver coin, a porcelain figurine or a dried bean is inserted.
In Italy, Epiphany is also the occasion to receive or not gifts and some delicacies: a witch from the Italian folklore, the “Befana”, takes advantage of January 6th to bring sweets to the good children, and… coal to the others! The latter is appreciated because it is made of sugar or licorice.
In Germany, the tradition of Epiphany is musical! In predominantly Catholic regions like Bavaria, it is customary to see “Sternsinger”, or “star singers”: these young choristers disguised as the Three Wise Men go from house to house, carrying a pilgrim’s staff topped with a star. Their songs are meant to collect donations and a few sweets along the way. January 6 is a holiday in three German regions: Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg and Saxony-Anhalt.
In Russia, January 6 is the day of Christmas according to the Orthodox calendar. According to tradition, Father Gelo distributes gifts with Babushka, an old woman who helps him in his distribution. It is also common for Orthodox people to take an ice bath in streams blessed by priests beforehand. They immerse themselves three times in the name of the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit, in remembrance of the baptism of Jesus.
In Bulgaria and Greece, people also dive into the waters of a lake in search of a cross thrown by an Orthodox priest. According to the legend, the one who recovers this cross will enjoy excellent health for the whole year.
In Romania, horse races are organized. The riders are blessed by priests. According to popular belief, if a woman slips or falls into the water, she will surely get married within the year.
The market for the “galette des rois” in France
The market for the galette des rois and a very juicy market for bakers and pastry chefs. Indeed, according to an Ifop (French Institute of Public Opinion) survey for the Federation of Bakery Companies published in 2019, 94% of French people eat galette at least once during Epiphany and 74% of them enjoy galette several times in January. The French buy their galettes in bakeries rather than in large and medium-sized stores, which are more popular with young adults. Sales of galettes made on the spot by bakers in supermarkets and frozen galettes for baking are nevertheless on the rise. King’s Day lasts six weeks for retailers. In January, the sale of galettes des rois allows professionals to increase their turnover by 30 to 40% compared to a normal month. Approximately 30 million galettes are consumed each year in France.
Beware of scams!
With such a lucrative business, slippage is inevitable and artisan bakers and pastry chefs are calling for a “tradition label” to protect the properly made galette. Because if some of the 32000 bakers-pastry cooks continue to make their own puff pastry and frangipane in their bakery, others deceive the customers about the goods. They are often bought frozen at low prices from a catalog and simply baked in the oven. With an average price of 3 to 4 euros per slice, we hope to taste a galette prepared by the baker or the pastry cook himself!
Galette for all tastes!
In France, our beloved galette differs from region to region:
- The traditional “galette des rois”
The Parisian galette des rois is made of puff pastry filled with frangipane (almond cream and pastry cream) or simply with almond cream It is the most consumed galette in France since it is found in all departments! It is the only galette offered in several regions of Central and Northern France! Originally, this Galette des Rois was simply made from a puff pastry that was well browned during cooking. It was eaten with jam. Over time, a filling appeared inside, consisting of frangipane, a cream composed of two thirds of almond cream and one third of pastry cream!
- The “galette des rois” from Dunkerque
In the department of Nord (59), we taste the “galette des rois dunkerquoise”! As its name indicates it, this cake is originating from the city of Dunkerque. This pastry could be close to the Tropézienne or the Honeycomb, a cake of German origin consumed in the region of Alsace and in the department of Moselle (57). It is a cake made from brioche dough filled with a butter cream flavored with rum. Its cream will reveal even more its flavors if it is prepared in advance!
- The “galette des rois franc-comtoise”
This other variant of the galette des rois is called the galette franc-comtoise, galette comtoise or galette bisontine from the name of the inhabitants of the city of Besançon, in the department of Doubs (25). This festive cake is composed of a base of choux pastry flavored with orange blossom or rum. It is a variant of the “gâteau de ménage” (or “toutché” in Franc-Comtoise language), another regional pastry made with a brioche dough, very rich in butter and sugar on which you can find fruits, cream, sugar or chocolate chips.
- The “Nourolles of the Epiphany”
It is the Norman king’s cake! This pastry comes from the department of Manche (50). It is also made from a brioche dough and butter and it must have the shape of twelve small balls corresponding to each of the apostles of Jesus Christ! The spirit of this is still found today in the commercial brioches sold under the name of “brioche à tête” or “brioche parisienne”, but without the bean that is essential to any true Nourolles of the Epiphany! It is eaten by cutting each of the twelve balls by hand and giving one to each guest.
- The “cake of kings”
It is found in the south of France. It is the second most consumed “galette des Rois” in France after the traditional “galette des rois” with frangipane. It is mainly found in the southern part of France where it is called “gâteau des rois”. It is made from a brioche dough flavored with orange blossom. It often has large grains of sugar and/or pieces of candied fruit on top. Depending on the department where it is shared, it has a different name: “Royaume” in Montpellier in Hérault (34), “Couronne bordelaise” in Bordeaux in Gironde (33) or “Coque des Rois” in Moissac in Tarn-et-Garonne (82).
- The cake with coconut or guava cream
It is without a doubt the most exotic of the cakes! It is eaten in Guyana where the tradition of the galette is very well established. The galette is eaten every Friday during the Carnival period, which starts on Epiphany and ends the day after Mardi Gras (47 days before Easter). The Guyanese galette is totally different from the other versions of galettes des Rois seen previously since it is made with a sweet shortcrust pastry filled with coconut cream, custard or guava jam, pineapple or even banana with honey! Its texture is reminiscent of the Basque cake, which has the same base of a dry cake filled with black cherry jam for example.
Whether you make it yourself, buy it from a bakery or buy it frozen, the galette is always an opportunity to get together at the beginning of the year and share a delicious moment with family or friends. Among the many varieties of galettes available on the market, everyone will find what they are looking for to become the queen or king for a day! For a perfect marriage you can accompany it with cider, perry and even Champagne!
Have a good tasting!